Kenya Study Abroad Program:
An Educating Experience

Melissa Hussain

Anth/ Soci 2100
Chepyator-Thomson/ Thomson
August 4, 2000

I begin my journey to Kenya on a lengthy plane ride across the Atlantic. We arrive in Nairobi, Kenya's capital. Kenya is located in Eastern Africa bordering the Indian Ocean between Somalia and Tanzania. It also borders Sudan, Uganda, and Ethiopia. With a total area of 582,640 square kilometers, it is approximately twice the size of Nevada (Central Intelligence Agency, 1999). We arrived at nighttime, and we are greeted by swarms of people eager to help us with our luggage and welcome us to their country. The friendly, accommodating manner of the people quickly becomes a recurring trend throughout the trip. We settle in at the Milimani Hotel in Nairobi early that night to prepare for our first day in the city early tomorrow morning.

5-16-00

Today was quite the learning experience. We began our day with a trip to the Kenya Snake Park and the National Museum of Kenya. Kenya's snake population includes some of the World's most deadly species including the black mambas, puff adders, and spitting cobras (Shales, 1996, p. 41). At the National Museum of Kenya, we visited many exhibits including a collection of cultural artifacts such as jewelry, ceremonial instruments, tools for various activities, and recreational games and toys. Many exhibits featured animals that are indigenous to the country, nationally protected, and popular tourist attractions. Perhaps the most interesting branch of our tour was the Prehistory Hall. "Here are the skulls which have shaped the world-wide theory of prehistory, pushing back the origins of man over 2.5 million years" (Shales, 1996, p.46). Unbeknownst to me before this trip, "Our own bipedal ancestor is known from skeletal fragments at least 4 million years old found in East Africa in northern Kenya and Tanzania" (Compton's Interactive Encyclopedia, 1997).

After our museum excursions, we headed downtown to eat. This was our first view of the city in daylight. Some of the observations I have made about the city include the lack of traffic lights, the amount of people that walk to their destination, and the abundance of beggars. It is not at all uncommon to see children begging for spare change while holding a package of glue, which they sniff as a form of drug abuse. Kenya's struggling economy is more than apparent in the nation's capital. The national GDP per capita (by 1998 estimates) is only $1,550. The unemployment rate is approximately 50% and about 42% of the population is below the poverty level (CIA, 1999). Though the city is somewhat dirty and impoverished, the beauty of the surrounding flora and fauna amidst the surreal, blue sky and white clouds make up for it.

Immediately, one of the most amazing aspects of Kenya to me is the weather. "Kenya has two wet seasons and two dry seasons. The rainy seasons extend from March to May and from November to January. The amount of rainfall is greatest in the highlands of Kenya, which are located in the west" (Compton's, 1997). Unfortunately, the country did not get the rains they had counted on, so they are in a drought. However, the dry heat makes for a very comfortable touring weather.

5-17-00 and 5-18-00

The KSAP (Kenya Study Abroad Program) agenda included a trip to the Kenya Science Teacher's College, a school built specifically to meet the needs of students who desire to teach in the Math and Sciences. Here we listened to various faculty explain the specific training the teachers here undergo. Then we toured the campus and examined their facilities. After independence was granted, there was a great increase in school enrollment and the need for qualified teachers. Therefore, the introduction of new teacher training facilities was necessary (Kenyaweb, 1998).

After the KSTC, we headed a sports complex that houses the Kenya Amateur Athletic Association. Because Kenya has a reputation for its consistent successful runners, this was the bulk of the topics covered. Says the Kenyaweb (1998) web site, "The world respected track and long distance runners have won countless medals at Olympic and track meets worldwide." Basically, the competition runs on a local level and increases in competition until it reaches a national meet. These athletes train to run in international competitions. Most runners also compete for sponsorship. Large corporations like Nike and Reebok often scout successful athletes and support them financially. We met one runner that was to compete in the national competition for the 400m race in one week. It was very unfortunate to witness his condition, as his warm-up suit did not fit and his shoes had holes in them. However, his track times were very good, and he hoped to secure some American sponsorship before the end of the competition.

The next stop was the Kenya Ministry of Education. Here we learned of the structure of Kenya's education, how it evolved into what it is today, and where it is predicted to go. Formerly, students would spend seven years in primary school, four years in secondary school and two years at an advanced level. Then the university level would consist of three years, while medical school was an additional four to five years. Currently, Kenya rests itself on an 8-4-4 system, which is eight years of primary school, four years of secondary school, and four years at the university level. Medical school then tags on another five to six years. The new education system is a point of pride for the country, sure that it more accurately meets the needs of the people, "the government has been implementing since 1985 the 8-4-4 education system which better reflects the social and economic needs of the countryŠ" (Kenyaweb, 1998).

The following lecture was from the National Examinations Council. Here is the group that forms the exams that determine the course of a student's education. After eight years of primary school, each student must take a KCPE test, which assesses the students' ability to move on to secondary school. Then after they complete secondary school, they undergo a similar test, called the KCSE. This score will decide whether that student will move on to a university, trade school, or discontinue his or her education. The competition to do well on the KCSE is fierce because of the high demand for a university education and the few number of schools. Since 1970, there has been an increase in the number of universities in Kenya. Currently there are four public universities and ten private universities (Kenyaweb, 1998).

5-19-00

At the final lecture of the week, we heard from the Kenya Institute of Education. This is the branch that is responsible for the curriculum for all public schools except universities in Kenya. Originally a training institute, it now serves as a materials-development institute. As education in the country expanded, so did the role of the Institute. Some of the subjects that the Institute works on include, arts and crafts, English, business education, religious education, physical education and geography/ history/ civics. Finally, we were able to see some of the Kenyan Education system in its working, as our last stop was the Moi Educational Centre, a primary school. The students were all so well-behaved, and diligent in their studies. They seemed so appreciative of visitors and sang us songs of welcome.

Upon completion of the Nairobi lectures on education, the aspect that I think is most admirable in the Kenyan education system is the fact that their curriculum is all centrally decided upon, making it equal from school to school across the nation. It is clear to me that the real tragedy in the Kenya education system is the lack of an easily accessed education (that is affordable) and the low availability of jobs upon graduation in many fields. Not to mention the abundance of fields that do not have enough qualified workers. "Every year, 30,000 Kenyans head overseas to study in Europe, the United States and Asia because of the limited access to higher education at home" (Salmon, 2000). The Kenyaweb (1998) web site says, "There are, however, specific areas where we still have a serious shortage of skilled manpower, while, at the same time, there are school leavers who cannot obtain gainful employment." It is a shame to me that a country with such an extensive, challenging education curriculum and students that have such ambition and dedication, are not guaranteed success.

5-20-00

Today was our first safari. We drove five hours on mostly unpaved roads through beautiful scenic landscapes to Ambeseli National Park. The roads were, at first, somewhat of a rustic excitement to me, though eventually that faded into more of a nuisance with all the dust flying about. It is interesting to note that of the 63,800 km of highways in the country, only a measly 8,868 km are paved roads (CIA, 1999). This explains why the drivers handled the massive potholes and sudden rock encounters so nonchalantly. They explained that part of the reason the roads remained unpaved on this drive was to avoid the upset of nature.

Perhaps one of the most noteworthy sights was that of the Masai people. The Masai are "herders [that] raise cattle, goats and sheep and move them seasonally from place to place to give them access to water and pature" (Compton's, 1997). The Masai people are easily recognized by their red wardrobe and intricately beaded jewelry. It is remarkable how they seemed so unaffected by the modern changes that the rest of the country is struggling to accommodate. The women still gathered firewood and built their temporary houses, while young boys were seen watching over the herd. One author notes, "The most colourful, proud and famous of Kenya's many tribes, the Masai still live a largely traditional lifestyleŠThe authorities are actively seeking to make them join the modern world. For the moment, they remain guardians of one of the last great nomadic traditions in Africa" (Shales, 1996, p. 87).

At Ambeseli I was overwhelmed by the animals we saw. The park was absolutely huge and had an atmosphere that made you feel like the only human around, even though other tour busses were often seen in the distance. The park actually contains "Fifty-six species of mammal including baboon, vervet monkey, lion, cheetah, elephant, zebra, hippo, black rhino, Maasai oryx, wildebeest, gerenuk, impala and gazelle," which, surprisingly, is all housed on just 392 sq km (Kenyaweb, 1998). The land is situated right on the Tanzanian border, which provides Mount Kilimanjaro as a backdrop. It was really beautiful to see the snow-capped mountain among the brightly shining sun.

5-21-00

Today's trip to Nairobi National Park was a unique experience. The park is located about 8 km south of the city of Nairobi. Therefore, it seemed unusual to me to see lions and zebra with the city's skyline as the backdrop. The vegetation at this park appeared healthier, but the atmosphere was slightly less serene. Surprisingly, there are over 80 recorded species of mammals and 500 species of bird in this city park (Kenyaweb, 1998).

After a day at Nairobi National Park, we headed to the bomas of Kenya. Here is a place where traditional dances and homes are recreated for tourist so that they can see the different cultures and societies that still participate in these traditional events.

5-22-00

We left Nairobi today to head to Eldoret, home of Moi University, where we will be working on our research projects. Before we left the city, we went to the text book center. The prices of the books here were so cheap, it's amazing to me that without the fancy book covers and big name publishers, that the prices of books are actually reasonable.

The drive to Eldoret was long, but very scenic. We saw some of the most beautiful landscapes as we traveled through the Rift Valley. As we passed over the Equator, we stopped and saw a demonstration of the Coriolis Effect. Just ten feet over the equatorial line, the water in a funnel will dispense in opposite directions. The drive took many hours, despite paved roads, and we did not arrive until after dark.

5-23-00

Today was an extensive day of lecturing from the Moi University staff. We heard from the heads of department from most areas that the school teaches. The staff was very thorough and covered areas including geography, climate, history, cultures and ethnic groups, western heritage, languages, society, political trends, community development, culture in a multi-ethnic society and its role in national development, education, science, and physical education and health issues (please see attachment of journal notes). One of the most extraordinary aspects of the Kenyan culture that I took from these lectures was the constant mentioning of "harambee". Harambee is a system where Kenyans come together and contribute to better the development of communities and raise money for development projects. On a large scale they deals with colleges and hospitals, while on a small scale they deal with nursery schools and water projects. In the 1990's Harambee contributed to 10% of the National Development Expenditure (Omoto, May 23, 2000). In fact, "almost all primary schools built and equipped after independence have initially been the result of harambee or self-help efforts" (Kenyaweb, 1998).

5-24-00

Today was a day on our own to meet with our professors that are supervising our research projects. I also used the school's computer facilities to send some email. I was shocked at the lack of computers connected to the internet. At a school with an enrollment of approximately 3000 students, there were only three to five computers with online access, depending how busy the lines were. Later I was disappointed that I had to wait in line for the town's payphone to make a phone call. Upon researching the extent of communications in the country, it is amazing to me that in a country with a population of over 28 million (July 1999 est.), there are only 383,000 telephones (1.36% population) and 500,000 televisions (1.79% population). This is compared with the United States' population of 272 million (July 1999 est.) and 182.6 million telephones (1987 est.; 67.1%population) and 215 million televisions (1993 est.; 79% population) (CIA, 1999).

5-27-00

This morning's agenda included a trip to one of Kenya's tea plantations. Tea consists of 18% of Kenya's export commodities (CIA, 1999). In fact, "Tea [is] raised for cash and export [and is one] of Kenya's major sources of income (Compton's, 1997). At the tea plantation, we saw the entire process that tea undergoes from seedling to packaging before it is exported.

Later we headed to Kapsabet for lunch and then onto the Kakamega Forest, Kenya's only lowland tropical rainforest. "It has 125 species of massive hardwood trees and literally hundreds of species of birds and mammals, many of which are found nowhere else in Kenya," says a popular tourist guide (Shales, 1996, p. 88). The forest was very dense with plants, which our guide helped identify. It was incredible the amount of plants that are used locally in medicines as cures for many common ailments from headaches to colds.

5-28-00

Today we went to Lake Nakuru National Park for our third safari. Due to the current drought, much of the lake was dry, but it was still a beautiful landscape. It was unfortunate to note the amount of dead animals in the park, many due to dehydration. Not suffering from a lack of thriving populations were the flamingos. "The lake is world famous as the location of the greatest bird spectacle on earth - a million or maybe two of pink flamingos that flock to the lake to feed on the abundant algae which thrives in the lake's warm waters" (Kenyaweb, 1998). It is also "one of the few parks established specifically for the protection of birds, particularly the flamingo" (Kenyaweb, 1998).

Another noteworthy event on our safari was the observation of two lions in heat. Our guides told us that the lions mate every 15 minutes for eight days straight, without stopping to eat or play. Therefore, they hunt immediately prior to the mating.

6-1-00

Today is Madaraka Day. It is similar to an Independence Day; it celebrates the anniversary of self-government (Shales, 1996, p. 186). To mark the national holiday, most businesses close for the day and flags are displayed on homes and in the street.

We spent our celebration on a trip to Lake Victoria. Lake Victoria is the second largest freshwater lake in the world to Lake Superior with an area of about 69,484 sq km. It is also the headwaters of the Nile (Compton's, 1997). Most people do not know (or perhaps they just do not care) that the lake is now officially renamed Nyanza, a name rarely used (Shales, 1996, p. 91). The lake was more remarkable in size than in beauty, though the day was nice, which made it more visually appealing. Because of parasites present in the water, it is not home to recreation, only fishing. We only stayed long enough to take pictures.

6-3-00

Today marked the beginning of our homestay. As part of the program, each student was paired with a Kenyan family to "spend a day in the life." The Bore family was extremely friendly and pleased to answer questions, as well as eager to ask questions. We experienced an "authentic" daily Kenyan ritual including meals, grocery shopping, recreational activities and church services.

For our meals we ate very typical Kenyan food, by standards that I have so far experienced. Lunch and dinner usually alternate with meals containing chapathi, an Indian bread that is reminiscent of a pita, stew with beef, chicken or lamb, and usually a starch such as rice or ugali, a mixture of corn maize and water. For breakfast, it is common to have fruits such as pineapple or passion fruit along with eggs, toast and possibly sausage. Several times throughout the day, Kenyans break for tea, an English influence.

Our Catholic Church service on Saturday evening was difficult to understand, considering it was in Swahili, but interesting nonetheless. This particular service was to commemorate the graduation of the Bore's friend and her future move to the United States to pursue higher education. I was surprised at the amount of Catholics present because I was unaware that Christianity is actually one of the main religions in the country beside traditional African religions and Islam (Compton's, 1997).

Another striking experience we had at the Bore's was the problem of power rationing. Kenya's drought was causing the country to rely on Uganda to import energy for electricity. Problems with the energy crisis have caused the nation to begin rationing power (Marek Enterprises & Southern African Centre for American Studies, 2000). We felt the burden of this when only half the family was able to eat breakfast because Ms. Bore was unable to finish cooking on her electric stove.

6-5-00

Tomorrow we will leave Moi University and head to the Masai Mara. However, tonight we encountered a problem that we hoped we would not. One of the members of our group became ill and speculation began that it might be malaria. Though we were all given anti-malarial pills before we departed, "the anti-malarial drugs that we have currently available for it are becoming less and less effective as drug resistance spreads throughout the world." Not to mention the fact that malaria is such a common killer in Africa. In fact, "One million to two million children under the age of 5 die annually in Africa from malaria, making it the number one killer of children on that continent" (Case Western Reserve University, 1999).

6-6-00

The member of our trip that became ill is feeling much better now, allowing us to move onto our next destination: Masai Mara. As the Kenyaweb (1998) web site calls it, "The Maasai Mara is Kenya's finest wildlife sanctuary. Everything about this reserve is outstanding. The wildlife is abundant and the gentle rolling grassland ensures that animals are never out of sight. Birds too are prolific, including migrant birds and 57 species of birds of prey." The park is absolutely huge and flourishing with plants and wildlife. It sprawls 1,672 sq km from southern to western Kenya until it borders another famous park, the Serengeti.

6-8-00

Here at the park we were able to witness approximately 17 male lions eating their kill, a Cape Buffalo. We saw a Lioness and her cubs. We watched Zebras gallop through the backyard of our cabins. We spotted herds of hippos waded in a pool. We gazed at hundreds of wildebeest began their migration across the park, and hyenas played with their pups. We even followed a dung beetle as it rolled a piece of its namesake across the gravel path.

6-9-00 and 6-10-00

Yesterday evening we boarded Kenya Railways on our ride to Mombasa. The old fashioned atmosphere from the early 1900's is retained throughout with hand-written message boards and seating charts. It was amusing to me that this is the railway that was made famous by the story of the Tsavo Man-eaters which was, in turn, capitalized upon in the Hollywood movie "The Ghost and the Darkness." The event is said to have had hundreds of workers of the railway suspend construction due to fear instilled by these man-eating lions. "Twenty-eight Indian workers were killed and eaten. Some accounts say at least 140 Africans living in the area were also killed," reports a Seattle newsource (Mbitiru, 1998). Work on the 657-mile railway was completed six years after its commencement in 1895 (Mbitiru, 1998).

The trip was approximately 13 hours because the train does not move very fast, and it makes many stops. We arrived in Mombasa early the next morning ready to explore this popular port city. In actuality, Mombasa has been a rich trading mecca since the 1400's. "A thousand years ago, when many Western cities were little more than muddy villages, Mombasa was a sophisticated city. By the 15th century, it was trading regularly with Persia, China and India, and its merchants were said to be so rich they wore cloth made of gold" (Shales, 1996, p. 102).

There was certainly no lack of tourist facilities in this beach town that serves as a popular European retreat. The Nyali Beach Hotel where we stayed was well equipped with several eateries and a multitude of planned recreational activities, like horseback riding and windsurfing. After our initial day of relaxation on the water, we retired to prepare for our walking tour the next day.

6-11-00 and 6-12-00

Today we visited the famous Old Town of Mombasa. The Old Town is known for its ornately carved doors and cultural mixing between the Islamic, Swahili, and European influence. We began our tour at Fort Jesus, a stronghold built by the Portuguese in 1593 to fend off local hostility and Turkish warships (Shales, 1996 p.104). The design is said to have resembled Jesus mounted on the cross. After, we walked to visit an old Islamic mosque, and we carefully hopped over the open sewage systems of the Old Town. The huge Arab influence on the African population was very obvious almost everywhere you turned. The people resembled a mixed blood, the menus posted on restaurant walls contained Indian and African cuisine, and in one skyline we were able to see the various architecture of the Swahili and Asian influences. It is interesting to note that the Swahili people were originally born from this integration of cultures. "So was born the Swahili people, their name derived from the Arab word sahel, which simply means Œcoast'" (Shales, 1996, p. 106).

After our brief stint in Mombasa, it was time to return to Nairobi to venture back across the Atlantic. We reluctantly boarded the Kenya Railways train that was to have us back in the capital early the next morning. However, as approached the 80 km mark of our trip home, we encountered delays due to a derailment ahead. After 18 hours on the train with very little movement, it became clear that we would not make our flight home unless other measures were taken. The Kenya Railway System hired a matatu to take us back to the city. The drive is only about six hours because it does not take the scenic route through Tsavo. A matatu is a van in Kenya used for mass transportation. They have been described as "cheap, useful, uncomfortable, crowded and dangerous, accounting for most road deaths" (Shales, 1996, p. 188). I am sure the rest of the passengers would agree on the "uncomfortable" part, but it did get us safely to our destination on time.

With our trip complete, it is important to acknowledge what a great pleasure it was to have seen such a beautiful country and its residents. The Kenyan people are the most hospitable I have ever encountered, and their pride in their country is admirable. The landscape that we toured was amazing and awe-inspiring from the Rift Valley overlooks to the Masai tribesmen to the safari wildlife. The experience taught me more than books and movies can depict and I hope one day to return to see areas I was unable to visit. As well, I would like to re-visit areas and take more time to capture it all on film and appreciate the aspects of the culture that may go overlooked on a first time visit.

References

Case Western Reserve University, School of Medicine, July 1999. $1.9 Million grant to study malaria in Kenya. Medlines [Online]

Central Intelligence Agency, January 1, 1999. The World Factbook 1999 [Online].

Kenyaweb, 1998, Weblink Services Ltd. Kenyaweb: Kenya's Definitive Internet Resource [Online].

Mbituru, C., April 26, 1998, Man-eaters of Tsavo Museum planned in Kenya where lions killed scores. Seattle Post-Intelligencer [Online].

Marek Enterprises & Southern African Centre for American Studies, August 3, 2000l Electrical Energy: Kenya [Online].

Salmon, K., April 11, 2000. Kenya grapples with brain-drain troubles, World Education Forum
[Online].

Shales, M., 1996. Passport's Illustrated Travel Guide to Kenya. Chicago, Illinois: Passport Books. U.S. State Department, August 1, 2000. Kenya- Consular Information Sheet [Online].